Cancer Research Charity Walk Harrietsham to Ringlestone

On 1st July I joined a couple of hundred fellow walkers for a 10 mile charity walk over the North Downs around Harrietsham in aid of Cancer Research UK.

The walk has been organised annually for the past 27 years by the Rotary Club of the Weald of Kent and to date has raised over £ 400000 for Cancer Research UK and other local Kent charities.

I joined the walk last year and decided to take part once again. The Rotary Club have the organisation of the walk down to a fine art and are a very amiable bunch. At the end of the walk, all participants are treated to a free ploughman's lunch, strawberries and cream and entertained by a live jazz band.

The walk started out from Harrietsham village hall and passed close by the late 11th century church of St John The Baptist and war memorial before heading off on a footpath through the fields towards Court Lodge Farm.

Kent's best dressed man? Probably not.

The view up to the top of the Downs.

Fields of wheat.

After passing the farm we took a right hand turn at No Man's Acre and headed steeply uphill making for the North Downs Way/Pilgrim's Way which runs along the top of the ridge. The Pilgrims Way was used for centuries by pilgrims heading for Canterbury.

Unfortunately this part of the Pilgrims Way is a by way rather than a public footpath and there were a number of off road bikes and quads racing up and down like lunatics. Not good when there are families with small children walking in the opposite direction...

After following the Pilgrims Way for about half a mile we reached the first check point and the rain started to fall heavily. At each checkpoint volunteers from the Rotary Club dispensed cups of squash, biscuits and words of encouragement. 

Luckily we joined a footpath through dense woodland (High Wood/Salisbury Wood). The thick canopy  helped to keep off the worst of the rain. Another mile or so further on and the second check point was reached at Ringlestone Road. At this checkpoint the Rotary Club had even laid on portable toilets! The rain had eased off and the sun was out. 

Our route then followed another ancient trackway, Drake Lane for about half a mile. This track possibly took it's name from Sir Francis Drake. This was a very peaceful and enjoyable leg of the walk. No traffic noise just the sound of birdsong and fields full of daisies. 

The third checkpoint was at Yewtree Farm. The sky had got ominously black but fortunately the rain remained in the distance so we avoided another dousing.

The fourth and final checkpoint was in the car park of the Ringlestone Arms.

During the 1960's the pub was run by two eccentric old ladies, Florence and Dora Gasking.

The pub door used to remain bolted shut at all times and customers wishing to gain access had to knock. At first the door would be opened slightly ajar so the customer could be "inspected" by the old ladies. 


If they decided they didn't like the look of a customer, which was often the case, he would be sent packing. Should he be brave (or foolish) enough to remonstrate with the ladies a shot gun would be poked out of the door! 

Nowadays the pub is a much friendlier place.

After leaving the pub our route passed across open farmland (Merlewood Farm and Lower Dean Farm). There were excellent views down the valley towards Court Lodge Farm which we had passed on the outward leg earlier in the morning.

A great display of poppies, heather and other wild flowers. 

The walk finished back at Harrietsham village hall. It took me about three hours to complete the distance of just under ten miles. 

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In the Footsteps of Dickens

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In the Footsteps of Dickens

A couple of weekends ago, when the weather was being kind for a change, I went for a circular walk around the village of Higham (mid way between Gravesend and Rochester).

Normally I tend to devise my own walks but on this occasion I followed a suggested 6.6 mile route from Kent County Council Explore Kent.

Many towns and villages in this part of North Kent including Higham claim links to the author Charles Dickens and trade on it to this day.

The walk starts and finishes at Higham station on the main line from London to the Medway towns. Dickens was an avid walker and covered on average 12 miles a day regardless of the weather.

From the station the route of the walk crosses over the railway bridge and then across open farmland towards the centre of Higham village.

Looking up the line towards Gravesend and London.

The distinctive buildings to the left of the picture are oast houses which were used for drying hops.

The church on the horizon is St John's church. It was consecrated in January 1862 and the Dickens family had a pew in the chancel. Dickens was a close friend of Joseph Hindle, the vicar of Higham.

Shortly after leaving the church you pass one of the village's remaining pubs, the Gardeners Arms. 

On 14th March 1856 Dickens purchased Gads Hill Place and resided there until his death in 1870. A number of his famous books were written here including Great Expectations, A Tale of Two Cities and his final (unfinished work) The Mystery of Edwin Drood. The house was originally built in 1779.

Nowadays Gads Hill Place is used as a private school. At some point this year, when new school buildings are finished, it is due to become a Dickens museum and will be open to the public.

Opposite Gads Hill Place is another watering hole, the Sir John Falstaff where Dickens guests were sometimes accommodated.

The walk climbs up Telegraph Hill adjacent to the pub. At the top of the hill is a concrete obelisk shaped monument to Charles Larkin a local political reformer who died in 1833. Unfortunately despite being mentioned in the KCC guide the entry to the field where the monument is located was padlocked shut. A bit of a disappointment on an otherwise excellent walk.

The walk passes along Hermitage Road with good views across the farmland towards the river (Thames).

The base of a windmill originally built in the 1760's but partly demolished in 1921.

The horses in the neighbouring paddock were very pleased to see me and followed me for some way. I think they thought I had some sugar lumps about my person!

Poplar trees surrounded by cow parsley. Not a bad place to stop for a quick sandwich before continuing on to Higham's second and original parish church, St Marys.

Parts of the church date back to the 13th century but there is evidence of earlier Saxon and Norman churches at the site. The church is no longer in regular use but is maintained by a national charity called The Churches Conservation Trust. It is open daily to visitors.

On 17th July 1860, Dickens' daughter Katey was married at the church. Reverend Hindle conducted the ceremony. Katey's mother Catherine was not at the wedding. Dickens had separated from her in 1858 after starting a secret affair with actress Ellen Ternan.

Dickens with his daughters Katey and Mary.

The stained glass windows are very impressive especially when the sun shines through.

Medieval floor tiles near the altar.

The door to the church is adorned with crude carvings thought to be from the 14th century.

After leaving the church the walk heads back to the starting point at Higham station and passing two more pubs.

The Chequers above closed a few years ago and has now been converted into apartments.

The final pub of the walk is the appropriately named Railway Tavern. I would recommend this walk. It is mainly over easy ground with plenty of points of interest and good views over the countryside.

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Kent's Disappearing Pubs

I have been inspired to write this latest post by my fellow blogger Helen in Melbourne, Australia.

She wrote an interesting piece on her blog about the contribution to the world of the traditional British pub.

I have read reports that pubs are closing at a rate of two a day (although I suspect it could be even more than than this).

A combination of factors have lead to this criminal state of affairs. The smoking ban, increases in alcohol duties and the general economic downturn.

Many well established pubs in Kent have been closed including a number of historic ones like the Terrace Tavern below in Gravesend.

This pub has been closed for several months now and faces an uncertain future. As a riverside town Gravesend used to boast numerous traditional Victorian pubs like this but many have now disappeared and with them their unique architecture.

The Terrace Tavern is a particularly good example of Victorian decoration with the green glazed tiles, etched glass windows (hidden by the hoardings) and fancy ironwork. The Shrimp Brand Beers were brewed locally in Gravesend.

Another closed pub I came across on one of my recent walks is the Fox and Hounds at Darenth.

This pub is located on a busy main road between Dartford and Longfield. Despite the passing trade it still does not appear to have been able to generate enough trade to survive.

The Colyer Arms at Betsham named after a local Great War hero (more about him in a future post) is no longer with us.....

A few months later....

This was the only pub in the village. It's closure followed that of the local petrol station and shop. The village had already lost it's railway station in 1962 courtesy of Dr Beeching.

The pub will be replaced with housing.

The Polhill Arms at Halstead was another large pub on a busy main road close to Orpington. The pub was named after the Polhill family who were important local landowners in the 18th century.

Finally two views of the Chequers Inn in the affluent village of Ightam near Sevenoaks taken on recent walks. The first shows the pub for sale....


Then a couple of months later boarded up....

These are just a few examples of the pubs we have lost in Kent over the last couple of years. Sadly before we come through the other side of the current recession there will no doubt be many more added to the list.

If you have any comments on this post I would love to hear from you.

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Double Murder at the Greyhound

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Double Murder at The Greyhound - A New Year Tale

Picture by Dr Neil Clifton

The popular Greyhound pub in the quiet village of Sutton At Hone on the outskirts of Dartford, Kent has a very dark secret.

Exactly 125 years ago today it was the scene of a horrific double murder.....

Following his customary routine, at ten o'clock in the evening, the 64 year old landlord David Smith had locked the front door for the night.
In the dimly lit taproom, two of his lodgers, Alfred Kemp a bricklayer's labourer and James Stroude a boot maker, shared a pot of ale at a table by the window.

A third lodger, John Crowhurst had already retired upstairs to bed.

Shortly after ten, 42 year old paper mill worker John Knocker entered the taproom, ordered a pint of beer and sat near the fireplace.

About fifteen minutes later, Knocker suddenly got up and walked calmly across to Kemp.

Without uttering a single word, he placed his left arm around Kemp's neck and with his right hand drew a razor deep across his throat.

Kemp fell sideways to the floor with blood spurting from the six inch wound to his neck.

In horror, Stroude saw Knocker making towards him but managed to effect his escape through the back door of the pub.

Passing the landlord Smith in the passageway he shouted "John's gone wrong tonight!" and set off to raise the alarm.

Smith entered the taproom and was immediately set upon by Knocker.

A ferocious struggle ensued but "old man" Smith was no match for Knocker who had served 25 years in the army.

Smith was pushed to the ground and his throat slit virtually from ear to ear.

On hearing the commotion, Crowhurst rushed downstairs to find the lifeless bodies of Kemp and Smith lying in a pool of blood on the taproom floor.

Of Knocker, there was no sign.

Shortly before midnight, John Knocker was apprehended by Police Constable Benge on West Hill, Dartford.

His face, hands and clothes covered in his victim's blood, Knocker immediately confessed to his crimes and was taken into custody.

An inquest was held into the tragic events.

Knocker had been resident at The Greyhound for around five months and had previously always been on very good terms with the landlord and his fellow lodgers.

His army conduct had been exemplary and Police Constable Benge who had made the arrest confirmed that he was not drunk.

So what had gone so terribly wrong?

At the inquest Mrs Smith told how Knocker had left The Greyhound in apparent good spirits on Christmas Eve for a short holiday but had returned the following Tuesday "a different man"....

We can only speculate what it was that tipped a sane man over the edge and made him commit such crimes.

Unfortunately I have not so far been able to find out what happened to John Knocker at trial but I can confirm that he was not hanged for his crimes.

In view of the circumstances of the case I imagine he may have been declared insane and committed to a lunatic asylum.

Nowadays, he would probably be tried for manslaughter on the grounds of diminished responsibility.

David Smith the landlord was buried in the nearby graveyard at St John the Baptist church on 10th January 1886.

If you have any comments regarding this post, they are most gratefully received.

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The Meopham Air Disaster

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They Burned for their Beliefs

Visit to East Malling

A couple of weeks ago I bought some items on Ebay and as the seller was based in Kent decided to pick them up in person to save on postage.

This lead us to visit the historic country village of East Malling a few miles outside Maidstone.

As junior was not in tow for a change, (he was at Centre Parcs running riot with his cousin for the weekend!), we were able to enjoy a leisurely stroll around the village and a very tasty lunch at the traditional King and Queen pub.

Opposite the pub is a small green with a well tended war memorial and behind that the impressive looking church of St James the Great which dates back to the 1100's.

Unfortunately once again, as often seems to be the case nowadays in Kent, the church was locked so we were not able to take a look inside. A shame but it seems the days when a church's door was always open are sadly long gone.

We settled for a look around outside the church which threw up some things of interest.....

I wonder whether Mrs Baker did really live to the ripe old age of 105? They were prone to a bit of exaggeration in those days!

There are a handful of war graves in the cemetery from both the First and Second World Wars. It is good to see that even though Private Fowler died in 1918, he is still remembered today.

I came across a memorial to Captain Frederick Andrewes Larking of the Submarine Miners R.E. who died of typhoid in Gosport, Hampshire on 26th May 1893 age 32.

I had never heard of a Submarine Miner before so decided to do some digging around.....

The Submarine Miners were a specialist division of the Royal Engineers formed in April 1871 and tasked with laying underwater mines in British harbour entrances to prevent unwanted incursions by enemy vessels.


A depot for the Submarine Miners was established in Chatham in 1877 and the service continued to expand. By 1886 there were nine companies based around the UK and also in Bermuda, Halifax (Canada), Malta and Hong Kong.


The Submarine Mining Service was eventually transferred to the Royal Navy in 1905.


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