The Rochester Cathedral Fresco

One of my favourite places to visit in Kent is Rochester Cathedral.

Virtually every time we are in Rochester we drop in for another look around and no matter how many times we've been before we always seem to notice something interesting we've previously missed.

One piece of artwork that is totally unmissable, however, is the fresco painted by Russian artist Sergey Fyodorov in 2004 to mark the 1400th anniversary of the founding of the cathedral.

The upper part of the fresco depicts the baptism of Jesus in the River Jordan by John the Baptist. The dove above Jesus's head symbolises the spirit of God and the fish/sea monster represents the old pagan religions being superseded by the new religion of Christianity. Jesus is attended by angels.

Below Jesus's feet is a portrait of the Virgin Mary flanked by the two main apostles Peter and Paul and the four evangelists Matthew, Mark, Luke and John.

The lower section of the fresco depicts events of great significance to Kent (and indeed British) history.

The lower left hand side of the fresco shows the Anglo Saxon King Ethelbert being baptised by Saint Augustine in 597 AD at Canterbury.

Augustine was a Christian missionary sent to Kent from Rome by Pope Gregory I - possibly at the behest of King Ethelbert's wife Bertha (who was already a Christian and daughter of Charibert, King of the Franks).

King Ethelbert later went on to establish many churches during his reign.

The lower right hand half of the fresco depicts Bishop Justus giving communion to newly baptised Anglo Saxons emerging from the River Medway.

Justus was another missionary sent from Rome to Kent in around 601 AD. In 604 AD he became the first Bishop of Rochester and in 624 AD the fourth Archbishop of Canterbury.

The Cathedral is open daily and admission is FREE.

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Tin Tabarnacles in Kent

What is a tin tabernacle?

A tin tabernacle, also sometimes known as a tin chapel, was a "temporary" building constructed from corrugated iron built during the late Victorian era and used for religious worship.

The late Victorian period was a time of religious missionary zeal and the Anglican church sought to spread the word particularly in rural areas such as Kent. Farm labourers and seasonal hop pickers would often find themselves living many miles walk from the nearest parish church.

To overcome this problem, tin tabernacles were built in the countryside as satellites of the parish churches. The minister would travel out to the tin tabernacle to deliver the Sunday sermon to the farm labourers and their families.

Although the tin tabernacles were only intended to be temporary structures in lieu of a more permanent building some can still be found in Kent well over one hundred years later.


The example pictured above was originally constructed in 1897 and located in Cuxton (near Rochester) but was dismantled and moved to the Museum of Kent Life in Sandling (near Maidstone) in 2000 where it is open to the public.

The tin tabernacles were usually very spartan inside as can be seen above.

I came across the St Mary's Church Room in Sole Street by accident during a recent walk. As far as I can tell from looking at old Ordnance Survey maps it dates back to around 1880. Sole Street is a small rural village a few miles from Gravesend which grew up around the railway station which opened in 1861.

Unusually for a tin tabernacle this one has a stained glass window.

Lastly another one I came across by accident on a walk around Halstead. This is not technically at tin tabernacle as it is made from wood but interesting all the same! It is located in Otford Lane and was known as the Mission Church.

At the time the church was constructed in 1891 most of Otford Lane lay in neighbouring Shoreham parish. Until that time the labourers and fruit pickers working on the farms and orchards there faced a walk of two or three miles to their proper parish church.

Eventually in 1938 Otford Lane was brought completely into Halstead parish. The Mission Church remained in use until 1985.

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Cancer Research Charity Walk Harrietsham to Ringlestone

On 1st July I joined a couple of hundred fellow walkers for a 10 mile charity walk over the North Downs around Harrietsham in aid of Cancer Research UK.

The walk has been organised annually for the past 27 years by the Rotary Club of the Weald of Kent and to date has raised over £ 400000 for Cancer Research UK and other local Kent charities.

I joined the walk last year and decided to take part once again. The Rotary Club have the organisation of the walk down to a fine art and are a very amiable bunch. At the end of the walk, all participants are treated to a free ploughman's lunch, strawberries and cream and entertained by a live jazz band.

The walk started out from Harrietsham village hall and passed close by the late 11th century church of St John The Baptist and war memorial before heading off on a footpath through the fields towards Court Lodge Farm.

Kent's best dressed man? Probably not.

The view up to the top of the Downs.

Fields of wheat.

After passing the farm we took a right hand turn at No Man's Acre and headed steeply uphill making for the North Downs Way/Pilgrim's Way which runs along the top of the ridge. The Pilgrims Way was used for centuries by pilgrims heading for Canterbury.

Unfortunately this part of the Pilgrims Way is a by way rather than a public footpath and there were a number of off road bikes and quads racing up and down like lunatics. Not good when there are families with small children walking in the opposite direction...

After following the Pilgrims Way for about half a mile we reached the first check point and the rain started to fall heavily. At each checkpoint volunteers from the Rotary Club dispensed cups of squash, biscuits and words of encouragement. 

Luckily we joined a footpath through dense woodland (High Wood/Salisbury Wood). The thick canopy  helped to keep off the worst of the rain. Another mile or so further on and the second check point was reached at Ringlestone Road. At this checkpoint the Rotary Club had even laid on portable toilets! The rain had eased off and the sun was out. 

Our route then followed another ancient trackway, Drake Lane for about half a mile. This track possibly took it's name from Sir Francis Drake. This was a very peaceful and enjoyable leg of the walk. No traffic noise just the sound of birdsong and fields full of daisies. 

The third checkpoint was at Yewtree Farm. The sky had got ominously black but fortunately the rain remained in the distance so we avoided another dousing.

The fourth and final checkpoint was in the car park of the Ringlestone Arms.

During the 1960's the pub was run by two eccentric old ladies, Florence and Dora Gasking.

The pub door used to remain bolted shut at all times and customers wishing to gain access had to knock. At first the door would be opened slightly ajar so the customer could be "inspected" by the old ladies. 


If they decided they didn't like the look of a customer, which was often the case, he would be sent packing. Should he be brave (or foolish) enough to remonstrate with the ladies a shot gun would be poked out of the door! 

Nowadays the pub is a much friendlier place.

After leaving the pub our route passed across open farmland (Merlewood Farm and Lower Dean Farm). There were excellent views down the valley towards Court Lodge Farm which we had passed on the outward leg earlier in the morning.

A great display of poppies, heather and other wild flowers. 

The walk finished back at Harrietsham village hall. It took me about three hours to complete the distance of just under ten miles. 

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In the Footsteps of Dickens

My Darent Valley Walk - Part 1

In the Footsteps of Dickens

A couple of weekends ago, when the weather was being kind for a change, I went for a circular walk around the village of Higham (mid way between Gravesend and Rochester).

Normally I tend to devise my own walks but on this occasion I followed a suggested 6.6 mile route from Kent County Council Explore Kent.

Many towns and villages in this part of North Kent including Higham claim links to the author Charles Dickens and trade on it to this day.

The walk starts and finishes at Higham station on the main line from London to the Medway towns. Dickens was an avid walker and covered on average 12 miles a day regardless of the weather.

From the station the route of the walk crosses over the railway bridge and then across open farmland towards the centre of Higham village.

Looking up the line towards Gravesend and London.

The distinctive buildings to the left of the picture are oast houses which were used for drying hops.

The church on the horizon is St John's church. It was consecrated in January 1862 and the Dickens family had a pew in the chancel. Dickens was a close friend of Joseph Hindle, the vicar of Higham.

Shortly after leaving the church you pass one of the village's remaining pubs, the Gardeners Arms. 

On 14th March 1856 Dickens purchased Gads Hill Place and resided there until his death in 1870. A number of his famous books were written here including Great Expectations, A Tale of Two Cities and his final (unfinished work) The Mystery of Edwin Drood. The house was originally built in 1779.

Nowadays Gads Hill Place is used as a private school. At some point this year, when new school buildings are finished, it is due to become a Dickens museum and will be open to the public.

Opposite Gads Hill Place is another watering hole, the Sir John Falstaff where Dickens guests were sometimes accommodated.

The walk climbs up Telegraph Hill adjacent to the pub. At the top of the hill is a concrete obelisk shaped monument to Charles Larkin a local political reformer who died in 1833. Unfortunately despite being mentioned in the KCC guide the entry to the field where the monument is located was padlocked shut. A bit of a disappointment on an otherwise excellent walk.

The walk passes along Hermitage Road with good views across the farmland towards the river (Thames).

The base of a windmill originally built in the 1760's but partly demolished in 1921.

The horses in the neighbouring paddock were very pleased to see me and followed me for some way. I think they thought I had some sugar lumps about my person!

Poplar trees surrounded by cow parsley. Not a bad place to stop for a quick sandwich before continuing on to Higham's second and original parish church, St Marys.

Parts of the church date back to the 13th century but there is evidence of earlier Saxon and Norman churches at the site. The church is no longer in regular use but is maintained by a national charity called The Churches Conservation Trust. It is open daily to visitors.

On 17th July 1860, Dickens' daughter Katey was married at the church. Reverend Hindle conducted the ceremony. Katey's mother Catherine was not at the wedding. Dickens had separated from her in 1858 after starting a secret affair with actress Ellen Ternan.

Dickens with his daughters Katey and Mary.

The stained glass windows are very impressive especially when the sun shines through.

Medieval floor tiles near the altar.

The door to the church is adorned with crude carvings thought to be from the 14th century.

After leaving the church the walk heads back to the starting point at Higham station and passing two more pubs.

The Chequers above closed a few years ago and has now been converted into apartments.

The final pub of the walk is the appropriately named Railway Tavern. I would recommend this walk. It is mainly over easy ground with plenty of points of interest and good views over the countryside.

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Gravesend Lions Charity Walk

On Monday I joined the Gravesend Lions on their annual charity walk starting and finishing at Chalk church and for the first time, in what seems like several weeks, the weather behaved itself.

The walkers were seen off by the Mayor of Gravesham and the vicar. I was roped in as unofficial group photographer.

The walk usually raises around £ 6000 for local charities including the Ellenor Lions Hospice.

We made our way through the churchyard passed then through fields of oilseed rape. It makes an interesting background for photographs but plays havoc with my hay fever and isn't easy on the nose - one of my fellow walkers (a lady) described it as smelling like cat's p*ss!

At the top of the field we walked through a corner of Shorne Country Park. The bluebells are currently in bloom amongst the trees so it made a change of scenery from all the rape seed.

At the half way stage we made a brief pit stop at the See Ho in Shorne. The pub name apparently refers to a hunting call which was given on first sighting of the hare.

We then walked through the village passing the disused Primitive Methodist chapel of 1893. It is due to be converted into a private dwelling. The Primitive Methodists were active from around 1810 until about 1932.

 Back across the fields of rape again.

The line of pylons intersecting the fields made an interesting photo opportunity.

Back at St Mary The Virgin, Chalk for a welcome cuppa before heading off home. Parts of the church date back to the 12th century and it is well worth a visit. The vicar always make a point of flying the England flag daily from the tower making it a very recognisable local landmark.

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My North Downs Challenge

A few months ago I signed up to take part in a charity 20 mile North Downs Challenge on behalf of St Mary's church in Kemsing. Some parts of the church date back to the 11th century so are understandably in need of some attention.

Earlier this month I duly reported in at the church hall along with many others who had taken on the challenge, and was given a very detailed set of instructions to follow, so detailed and clear in fact I never had to look at my map all day.

The very first part of the walk involved a steep climb out of Kemsing to join the North Downs Way. This certainly got the heart pumping!

On the ascent I passed close by Otford Manor, an impressive arts and crafts style house which is now used as a Christian retreat. The Manor is built on top of one of the highest points in Kent and has excellent views across the North Downs.

After climbing all the way to the top of the hill and following the North Downs Way for about an hour, the route dropped back downhill into the village of Otford which I have mentioned before in My Darent Valley Walk Part 2.

The route passed close by the remains of Otford Palace originally built for the Archbishops of Canterbury but later seized by King Henry VIII.

I continued through the churchyard along the Pilgrims Way through the village for a short distance before heading across the fields towards Twitton. This is one of my favourite parts of the Darent Valley as you actually find yourself away from the noise of traffic and for a change all you can hear is birdsong.


Twitton can't even be classed as a village as it consists of only a handful of ancient farms including Filston which served as check point 1. Distance covered 4.7 miles (7.62 km).

At each check point the organisers had laid on complimentary refreshments which were very welcome as it was a hot day. After leaving Filston Farm there was another steep climb to the top of the valley.

The route then followed the length of the valley for some distance passing by the village of Shoreham and eventually descending through fields full of wild flowers such as daisies and poppies before passing through Lullingstone golf course.

A field full of daisies. As I crossed a stile at this point I spotted a lizard but unfortunately he shot off like a rocket before I could get a picture. Somehow I don't think I'll end up being a wildlife photographer....

The poppies are amazing this year and can be seen for miles. Shortly after passing the field full of poppies, Lullingstone Castle came into view.

I dropped down to the foot of the hill and followed my old friend the Darent Valley Path to check point two at the Lullingstone Visitor Centre.

Shortly before reaching the check point I was pleasantly surprised to bump into one of my old scout leaders who I hadn't seen for about thirty years, heading in the other direction with a party of kids on a point to point exercise along the Darent Valley.

Check point two - distance covered 9.8 miles (15.2 km). A quick sandwich and a drink before pressing on along the Darent Valley Path through Shoreham village then back up the other side of the valley to the little hamlet of Romney Street.

Romney Street consists of a handful of houses and The Fox and Hounds pub which also doubled up as Check Point three. The pub features in many books about walking in Kent and was a welcome oasis after a long uphill slog.

Check point three. Distance covered 15 miles (24.19 km). My knees beginning to ache a bit at this point but I couldn't give up.

For most of the walk I had been accompanied on and off by a nice lady about twenty years older than me so if she could manage it so must I.

Just after leaving the pub we had another unexpected surprise....

The Battle of Britain Memorial Flight Lancaster flew over low and slow heading towards London.

The route continued on through Knatts Valley and (yet) another golf course to the little village of Woodlands. Although the village only consists of a handful of houses, the golf clubhouse and a manor house it has it's own church.

The church is located in the amusingly named Tinker Pot Lane. Next door to the church is a hall which was the location for the final Check Point.

Check Point four. Distance covered 17.71 miles (28.5 km).

For the return leg to Kemsing the route took us back onto the North Downs Way.

A welcome sight as by now my knees were very sore!

The weather stayed kind and the views from the top of the Downs were stunning.

I came across this friendly cow munching on the grass minding her own business. One of her bovine friends on the other hand decided to go on a mini adventure....

Somehow she managed to find a gap in the fence and wandered off deep into the woods.

A little further on I could hear her owners trying to chase her out of the woods and back into the field. The language was quite ripe!

I got back to the church at Kemsing where sandwiches had been laid on. Total distance covered 20.3 miles (32.73 km). Total time taken including breaks for refreshments - 8 hours 27 minutes.

An enjoyable day despite the sore knees. Maybe I'll do it all again next year.

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